Exploring Antigua by Sailboat: A Journey through Caribbean Paradise
Azure blue water, quaint harbors, and island hospitality! Warm weather and the consistency of the trade winds made cruising Antigua absolute heaven.
This was my first visit to this island paradise, and after navigating through all the available information I thought I might share some of the things I’ve learned.
Let me start by saying that the weather was consistently around 80° every day and in the 60’s every night with an easterly breeze between 15 and 20 knots. The easterly breeze makes anchoring on the east side of the island a bit rocky unless you choose an anchorage inside the lee of one of the islands.
We chartered a brand new Beneteau 43.5 for the week which we picked up from Moorings in English Harbor. I learned two things: 1) just because it’s a new boat doesn’t mean it (or the sails) are in good condition and 2) be sure the boat has been fully commissioned before your arrival. Our boat arrived from the BVIs the morning of our charter and the wonderful staff at the Mooring’s didn’t have a chance to go through it (other than cleaning it) prior to our arrival. This resulted in 5 hours of going through the boat identifying things that were missing, broken or not working. To be fair, we were part of a large cruising group that overwhelmed the small staff of Moorings who were doing their best. Although our experience may not be typical, note that things do happen on Island Time so be prepared to wait. For a nominal fee, we opted to a sleep aboard the night before we were to take the boat out which allowed us to take care of provisioning, settle into our cabins and explore English Harbor before setting out on our sailing adventure. I highly recommend this so you can explore this area without having to use up your sailing time.
Provisioning for the Journey
No sailing adventure would be complete without proper provisioning, and Antigua offers a plethora of options. Each harbor contains a number of local vendors and restaurants where you can order local delicacies for lunch or dinner over the next few days. Families offer fresh meals cooked to order and local produce on the side of the road. It’s nice to support the local economy – not to mention these home cooked meals are delicious and easy to reheat. Who wants to cook on vacation?
In English Harbor there is a small store, Total Yacht Solutions, located just outside the gate of Nelson’s dockyard. Think of this like you would a convenience store. It’s great for picking up a few things, but you cannot fully provision at this market and produce is very limited. I should also mention, the convenience of the location is offset by the fact that it is expensive compared to other options. For full provisioning I recommend you order ahead from Epicurean Fine Foods & Pharmacy, out of their main location in St. John and have it delivered to English Harbor. You will need to do this about a week ahead of time, but it is worth it. The alternative is you can head to the bustling capital of St. John’s, up the western coast of the island as a first stop. There you will find a vibrant array of markets, grocery stores, and specialty shops offering everything from fresh produce and locally caught seafood to artisanal cheeses and fine wines. Please note that St. John’s is Antigua’s cruise ship port and can have upwards of 5 full-size cruise ships in port at any one time. Alternately, Epicurean has a second location in Jolly Harbor. Although well stocked, it is smaller than the store in St. John’s. All the Epicurean stores include a section with beer, wine and liquor.
Just outside English Harbor is Crab Hole Liquors which is a great place for all us pirates to load up on grog. A fully stocked liquor store, you can stock up on wine, beer, mixers, and your favorite libations. Their pricing is better than you will find at any of the grocery stores. Antigua and Barbuda produce sugar cane and offer many local rums including English Harbor Rum, and several from Antigua Distillery. You also can find bottled Antigua Rum Punch which is a local favorite.
Navigating Antigua’s Waters
While Antigua’s waters are renowned for their beauty and tranquility, it’s important to be mindful of potential hazards and navigational challenges along the way. Keep a lookout for coral reefs, submerged rocks, and shallow areas, especially when entering or exiting harbors and anchorages. Additionally, be aware of changing weather conditions, including sudden squalls and strong currents, which can impact your sailing experience. By staying vigilant and planning your routes carefully, you’ll ensure a safe and enjoyable voyage through Antigua’s stunning waters. I recommend Imray A27 Chart. Although there is A271 which is the detail of the northern part of the island, we didn’t need it and found A27 to be more than adequate.
We also found Chris Doyle and Lexi Fisher’s Cruising Guide to the Southern Leeward Islands to be extremely helpful for finding the best anchorages, sights and restaurant recommendations. Although out of print, the 2020-2021 version is still very useful, and it is also available online.
Anchorages
With our provisioning work done, we can begin our journey exploring the breathtaking island of Antigua. Let’s hoist the sails, feel the gentle breeze against your skin, and discuss some of the beautiful places to drop anchor.
Anchoring at Nelson’s Dockyard
Our voyage begins with a majestic approach to Nelson’s Dockyard, nestled within the scenic English Harbour on Antigua’s southern coast. As we sail into this historic harbor, you’ll be transported back in time to the 18th century, when British naval prowess ruled the waves. Drop anchor amidst a flotilla of yachts and traditional sailing vessels, and marvel at the perfectly preserved Georgian architecture of the dockyard’s buildings, once bustling with sailors, merchants, and naval officers. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a unique blend of history and modern-day charm, with boutique shops, cozy cafes, and lively bars waiting to be explored ashore.
Savoring Antigua’s Culinary Delights
After a day of sailing and sightseeing, indulge your taste buds with Antigua’s vibrant culinary scene, featuring an array of restaurants serving up fresh seafood, island-inspired dishes, and international fare. For a taste of local flavor, head to the Admiral’s Inn Restaurant, nestled within the historic confines of Nelson’s Dockyard, where you can dine al fresco overlooking the harbor while savoring mouthwatering Caribbean classics. Alternatively, venture ashore to nearby English Harbour and treat yourself to a gourmet meal at Catherine’s Café Plage, renowned for its French-Caribbean fusion cuisine and romantic beachfront setting. Whether you’re craving seafood paella, jerk chicken, or a decadent lobster feast, Antigua’s restaurants are sure to satisfy even the most discerning palate.
Anchoring at Great Bird Island
Our first stop was a day sail around the western side of the island and inside the reef on the northern coast to the enchanting Great Bird Island. This tiny slice of paradise is a haven for nature enthusiasts and beachcombers alike. As we approach the island, you’ll be greeted by lush greenery, towering cliffs, and pristine beaches. Drop anchor in the sheltered bay and take a refreshing dip in the azure waters or explore the island’s winding trails to discover hidden coves and panoramic vistas. Don’t forget to pack a picnic lunch and enjoy a leisurely meal amidst the island’s natural beauty. There is good snorkeling along the reef and in the beach area. All beaches in Antigua are public and although the tour companies may try to tell you they are private, all the beaches are public and open to everyone.
Discovering Carlisle Bay
Next on our itinerary is the iconic Carlisle Bay, renowned for its serene waters, vibrant coral reefs, and historic shipwrecks. As we sail into the bay, you’ll be mesmerized by the kaleidoscope of colors beneath the surface, teeming with tropical fish, sea turtles, and graceful rays. Drop anchor near the wreck of the Andes, a sunken merchant vessel dating back to the 19th century and don your snorkeling gear for an unforgettable underwater adventure. After exploring the depths, relax on the pristine beaches or indulge in a sumptuous seafood feast at one of the bay’s waterfront restaurants.
Adventures at Green Island
Our voyage continues to the picturesque Green Island, a secluded paradise brimming with natural beauty and seafaring charm. Navigate through the shallow waters surrounding the island and drop anchor in one of the protected bays, where you’ll be surrounded by lush mangroves, swaying palm trees, and secluded beaches. Take a leisurely stroll along the shoreline, keeping an eye out for colorful birdlife and elusive marine creatures, or embark on a kayaking expedition to explore the island’s hidden lagoons and secret coves. As the sun begins to set, savor a romantic dinner onboard or set up a beachside barbecue under the stars, accompanied by the gentle lullaby of the waves.
No sailing adventure would be complete without proper provisioning, and Antigua offers a plethora of options to stock up on supplies for the journey ahead. Head to the bustling capital of St. John’s, where you’ll find a vibrant array of markets, grocery stores, and specialty shops offering everything from fresh produce and locally caught seafood to artisanal cheeses and fine wines. Alternatively, anchor at one of the island’s marinas and take advantage of their onsite provisions stores, stocked with all the essentials for a memorable sailing excursion. With your provisions secured, you’ll be ready to set sail once more, eager to explore the endless wonders that await around every corner of Antigua’s azure waters.
As our journey around Antigua comes to a close, we’re left with memories of sun-drenched days, starlit nights, and the boundless beauty of the Caribbean Sea. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or a novice adventurer, Antigua offers an unforgettable escape into a world of pristine beaches, turquoise waters, and endless horizons. So until next time, fair winds and following seas!
Exploring Underwater Wonders
No visit to Antigua would be complete without exploring the mesmerizing underwater world that lies just beneath the surface. Strap on your snorkeling gear and dive into the azure waters surrounding the island, where vibrant coral reefs, tropical fish, and fascinating marine life await. One of the best snorkeling spots near Nelson’s Dockyard is the Pillars of Hercules, located just a short sail away in the nearby Mamora Bay. Here, you’ll discover a kaleidoscope of colors beneath the waves, with towering coral formations, swaying sea fans, and curious sea creatures beckoning you into their underwater realm. Keep an eye out for colorful parrotfish, graceful stingrays, and even the occasional sea turtle gliding gracefully through the crystal-clear waters.
As our journey through Antigua’s nautical wonders comes to a close, we’re left with memories of historic harbors, culinary delights, and underwater adventures that will last a lifetime. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice explorer, Antigua offers a captivating blend of history, beauty, and excitement that’s sure to leave you longing for more.
So, until next time, fair winds and following seas!